Author: Safeya Saied Binzagr
In “Darzah: 200 Years of Sartorial Heritage in ,” readers are invited to explore the remarkable and invaluable contributions of the late pioneering Saudi artist Safeya Saied Binzagr.
According to the publisher’s website, the volume was released in October 2024, just a month after Binzagr’s passing on Sept. 12.
Published by Rizzoli — renowned for its lush, glossy coffee-table books — this 400-page tome is the first high-end publication to focus exclusively on ’s traditional garments and accessories.
The title “Darzah” is derived from darza, without the “h,” referring to the stem stitch often used at the start of garment construction. It also colloquially connotes refined and elaborate craftsmanship in embroidery — an apt reflection of Binzagr’s lifelong devotion to documenting the artistry woven into the Kingdom’s heritage.
Born in 1940 in Jeddah’s historic Harat Al-Sham district, she became a cultural icon during her lifetime, known for her meticulous artistic documentation of the Kingdom’s traditions.
Her creative journey began after studying fine arts and graphic design at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, following a period in Cairo with her family.
Upon returning to Jeddah, she began exploring through art — driven by curiosity and fascination — and realized that proper documentation of these cultural elements had not yet been gathered in one place.
In 1994, she launched a monthly salon that brought together poets, writers, and art critics. The following year, she established Darat Safeya Binzagr — her private museum — which opened to the public in 2000 and still houses her entire oeuvre, along with her extensive collection of traditional artifacts and Saudi costumes.
Art-directed and researched by Arwa A. Abdullatif and translated from Arabic to English by Maria K. Alem, this book draws entirely from the acclaimed Darat Safeya Binzagr collection. All imagery is courtesy of the Darat Safeya Binzagr Archives.
The book opens with a heartfelt message from Binzagr that reads: “To every woman who has ever woven, embroidered, or sewn and contributed to our national heritage: I dedicate this book to you all.”
Binzagr also writes: “It was my love for art that drove me to use my paintbrush as a tool for documentation, eternalizing aspects of my culture that were rapidly changing within my own lifetime. My interest in culture has always been multifaceted, branching from customs to costumes.”
As her research deepened, Binzagr visited every region of the Kingdom to authenticate her findings, often accompanied by her late sister Thuraya.
Through her paintings and photography, Binzagr meticulously recorded the details of traditional attire, ensuring these tangible examples remain publicly accessible for future generations of artists and researchers. You can see the results in this book.
Her first costume painting, “Al-Nassa” (The Women), created in 1968, documented bridal wear and symbolized her mission to trace an intangible heritage. And it went on from there.
Each artwork began with rigorous field research — studying garments, their origins, and the contexts in which they were worn.
She relied heavily on local women who dressed brides in traditional attire on their wedding day, whose intimate knowledge of the garments surpassed that of formal historians.
This is perhaps the only place where each item or accessory is not only described and illustrated but also named. We now have accurate terminology for each layer.
The book also delves into the rich diversity of Saudi dress across regions, exploring women’s and men’s garments, jewelry, embroidery, and headwear in remarkable detail.
Binzagr’s work highlights how textile craft in the Arabian Peninsula reached its golden age with the advent of Islam, flourishing further as pilgrims traveling through Makkah exchanged fabrics, techniques, and motifs.
Printed in Italy, the book feels like a contained, paper-based masterclass, filled with authentic notes and some previously unpublished artworks, textiles, and field documentation.
It is not merely a book about fashion or style — it is a work of art.
