Guerlain perfumer talks Arab perfume traditions in Riyadh听
Guerlain perfumer talks Arab perfume traditions in Riyadh听/node/2580697/lifestyle
Guerlain perfumer talks Arab perfume traditions in Riyadh听
Thierry Wasser is the in-house perfumer of French luxury beauty brand Guerlain. (Supplied)
Short Url
https://arab.news/yxfjj
Updated 29 November 2024
Sulafa Alkhunaizi
Guerlain perfumer talks Arab perfume traditions in Riyadh听
Updated 29 November 2024
Sulafa Alkhunaizi
RIYADH: Thierry Wasser, the in-house perfumer of French luxury beauty brand Guerlain, sat down with Arab News on a recent visit to 黑料社区 to talk all things fragrance at the reopening of the flagship Guerlain boutique in Riyadh Park.
The perfumer shared his insights on the differences between typically Middle Eastern scents and their European counterparts and even touched on his previous visit to Taif in the Kingdom, which is famous for its distinct roses grown at high altitudes.
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
The perfumer shared his experience of visiting Taif鈥檚 1,800-meter-high Al-Sarawat Mountains, home to the Taif Rose variety, saying 鈥淚t's a zig zag when you go 鈥 sometimes you have a place you don't expect the altitude to be so high.鈥
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
With more than 200 perfumes to his name, the perfumer revealed his favorite scent as Habit Rouge by Guerlain, an oriental woody perfume with notes of earth, warm leather, and the forest, launched in 1965 by the iconic Jean-Paul Guerlain.听听
鈥淚t's like a shining armor. It was a disguise of a man, a manly, masculine disguise. It shaped me. My attitude changed 鈥 I kept it all my life like a lucky charm,鈥 he said.听
Wasser's journey with the brand began in 2008, when was appointed as the first non-Guerlain family member to be the in-house perfumer of the storied house founded in 1828.听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
听
鈥淲hen you manufacture and source it, you get intimate with the formula and the fragrance from your predecessors and you are responsible for the integrity of them,鈥 he said.
Wasser learned fragrance is typically applied on clothing in the region, as opposed to directly on the skin, which is common practice in Europe.听
鈥淪o I changed my approach and I made all my trials on cotton handkerchiefs,鈥 he explained.
The fragrance house's iconic bee emblem reflects a commitment to sustainability. In 2021, Guerlain became one of the first luxury houses to join the Union for Ethical BioTrade and initiated a verification process for 50 natural ingredients.
鈥淪ustainability is not exactly a marketing tool or communication tool, it is a state of mind,鈥 Wasser said.
*This article was updated on Nov. 29, 2024, to correct quotes by Thierry Wasser.
Recipes for Success: Chef Tim Newton听offers advice and a tasy Spanakopita recipe
Updated 30 October 2025
Shyama Krishna Kumar
DUBAI: Tim Newton, executive chef and partner at Dubai's Demind Group, is the culinary mastermind behind popular dining establishments like French outlet Bagatelle, Greek eatery OPA, Iberian Latiano restaurant La Nina, and Myrra, a blend of Greek and Spanish fare set against a scenic beach backdrop.
Having worked with culinary greats including Francesco Mazzei, Matt Moran and Ed Wilson, Newton has honed his craft in the kitchens of Paris, London, California and Australia over the years.
When you were starting out, what was the most common mistake you made?
When I first started, I didn鈥檛 always take direction the way I should have. I thought I knew better, but I quickly learned that listening and following guidance is key. Once I understood that, everything started to change and I began to truly grow in the kitchen.
Tim Newton is the executive chef and partner at Dubai's Demind Group. (Supplied)
What鈥檚 your top tip for amateur chefs?
Just go for it, but if you鈥檙e cooking for others, keep it simple and do something you know well. Confidence in the dish makes all the difference, and it鈥檚 better to perfect a few things than to experiment under pressure.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
It really depends on the venue and the cuisine. There isn鈥檛 a single ingredient that transforms everything. Balance and understanding flavors matter more than any one secret addition.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
It depends on I am. If I鈥檓 in Karama (a Dubai neighborhood), and I鈥檓 having a 40-dirham curry and rice, then I鈥檓 not there to judge, I鈥檓 there to enjoy it for what it is. But if I鈥檓 in Dubai International Financial Center paying 350 dirhams for a steak, then, yes, I notice the details. That said, we all get it wrong sometimes, even me.
Flaming Saganaki at Opa. (Supplied)
What鈥檚 the most common issue you find in other restaurants?
A lack of proper training. Many staff members come from different parts of the world and are expected to just get it right immediately. It鈥檚 not always fair. As customers, we should also be more understanding and less judgmental when things don鈥檛 go perfectly.
When you go out to eat, what鈥檚 your favorite dish to order?
Tacos, without a doubt. My wife and I love exploring all the Mexican spots in Dubai, always looking for the next great taco.
What鈥檚 your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
Probably fried rice or tacos. I always have the ingredients ready for both. They鈥檙e easy, quick, and always satisfying.
La Nina. (Supplied)
What鈥檚 your favorite dish to cook and why?
Tacos again, mostly because they鈥檙e my wife鈥檚 favorite. Cooking them for her is something I genuinely enjoy.
What鈥檚 the most difficult dish for you to get right?
After 27 years in the kitchen, I wouldn鈥檛 say anything feels particularly difficult anymore. It鈥檚 all about consistency, experience, and trusting your instincts.
As a leader, what are you like?
I鈥檇 describe myself as tough but fair. I expect a lot from my chefs, but I give them the same in return. I push them hard because I know the reward, the learning, the growth, and the pride, are always worth it.
RECIPE: SPANAKOPITA (SPINACH PIE)
For the Spanakopita
Spinach 1kg
Garlic 25g
Leeks 450g
Feta cheese 310g
Fresh dill 30g
Filo pastry 8 sheets
Unsalted butter 100g
Oil 30g
Kashkaval cheese 120g
Prepare the filling
Chop the garlic, clean the spinach, and remove any excess moisture. Clean and slice the leeks and chop the dil.. Crumble the feta cheese. Heat oil in a pan over medium heat and saute garlic until fragrant. Add the sliced leeks to the pan and cook until softened. Incorporate the spinach, cooking until wilted, add the chopped dill and cool. Once cooled, chop the spinach finely and add the feta and Kashkaval cheese. Adjust the seasoning according to your preference, then mix thoroughly.
Make the spanakopita
Start by melting the butter in a saucepan over low heat until it becomes a liquid. On a clean work surface, lay out a sheet of filo pastry. Using a pastry brush, coat the sheet evenly with the melted butter, layer a second sheet and butter. Repeat the process with a total of four sheets for the base and four sheets for the top. Cut the layered filo into 2 circles, use the help of a baking ring (20 cm diameter x 35 cm height). Cut the rest of the filo into 4cm strips. Line a baking tray with parchment paper and place a baking ring on it. Layer one round of filo at the bottom; brush ring sides with clarified butter. Arrange 4 ccm strips around the ring鈥檚 interior to cover and brush with butter and press the edges together at the bottom. Fill the centre with the filling, ensuring no air pockets, spreading evenly. Brush another filo circle with butter and place on top. Fold over remaining filo strips to enclose completely. Transfer the pie to the refrigerator and let it set for an hour. Score the chilled pie into 12 wedges using a sharp knife. Make sure to clean the knife between each slice.
Cook
Preheat the oven to 170 degrees Celsius and bake for 40 minutes. Let it sit for 15 minutes at room temperature. Meanwhile, raise the temperature of the oven to 200 degrees Celsius. Then put the pie back in the oven for 5 minutes to get the crispy finish.
Serve
Carefully remove the ring and cut the pie into 12 separate wedges. Garnish with feta cheese and add chervil and dill sprigs on top.
Ithra to reveal new commission 鈥斺楩lamenco Essence鈥 鈥 at Dubai Design Week听
Updated 30 October 2025
Adam Grundey
RIYADH: The King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture (Ithra) will unveil a new commission at Dubai Design Week, which begins Nov. 4.
Designed by Izaskun Chinchilla Architects, the installation, titled 鈥淔lamenco Essence: The Lavender Pavilion,鈥 鈥渂ridges Spanish and Saudi traditions through shared arts, scents, and craft details,鈥 according to a statement.
It is, Spanish architect Izaskun Chinchilla, the founder of ICA, tells Arab News, 鈥渁 space that embodies calmness, collective serenity, and the therapeutic power of scent.鈥
Spanish architect Izaskun Chinchilla, whose firm designed the Ithra commission. (Supplied)
She continues: 鈥淭his year鈥檚 theme (for DDW), 鈥楧etail,鈥 invites designers to rediscover the meaning hidden in traditional decorative elements. In our case, we looked at the ruffles of the flamenco skirt 鈥 a detail that might seem ornamental, but holds movement, rhythm, and emotion. The ruffle enhances the synchronization between the music and the dancer movements and, for us, it allows the synchronization of breathings from visitors. We translated that energy into architecture: light, undulating forms that seem to breathe with the visitor.
鈥淟avender, deeply rooted in Saudi nature, brings its soothing fragrance and becomes a bridge between body, community, and landscape. Here, design becomes an act of care, transforming something as small as a decorative detail into a space for healing and connection.鈥
The pavilion is circular, with a sequence of reclinable seats inviting visitors to try out different forms of breathing, depending on their posture. And at the heart of the installation is a plantation of lavender. 鈥淭he wind naturally carries the fragrance across the pavilion, allowing visitors to enjoy the calming scent over several meters, creating a subtle, immersive experience,鈥 says Chinchilla. 鈥淎bove, an undulating fabric canopy 鈥 inspired by the ruffles of a flamenco skirt and built with outdoor textiles and a light metal structure 鈥 protects visitors from sun, dust, and rain, while channeling the lavender aroma toward the seating areas.鈥
The collaboration with 鈥渙ur Saudi colleagues,鈥 she adds, 鈥済reatly enriched鈥 the project, with input on 鈥渓ocal forms of communication鈥 and 鈥渃ontemporary building techniques.鈥
The hope is that guests will enjoy 鈥渁 multifaceted experience of wellbeing and social connection,鈥 Chinchilla explains. 鈥淲e encourage visitors to explore different forms of interaction within the space: from quiet introspection to shared dialogue, noticing how subtle design gestures 鈥 the curvature of the seating, the undulating roof 鈥 shape the rhythm of breathing and social engagement.鈥
Celebrity makeup artist Bassam Fattouh reveals his secrets to timeless beauty
Updated 29 October 2025
Hams Saleh
DUBAI: Lebanese celebrity makeup artist Bassam Fattouh, founder of his namesake cosmetics brand, shared his expert tips during a Dubai masterclass at Beautyworld Middle East, the region鈥檚 leading international trade fair for beauty, hair, fragrance, and wellbeing, which took place this week.
The session provided a glimpse into his signature soft, glowing approach that has made him one of the Arab world鈥檚 most trusted beauty figures.
The session provided a glimpse into his signature soft, glowing approach that has made him one of the Arab world鈥檚 most trusted beauty figures. (Supplied)
Fattouh began by revealing that he usually starts any look with eye drops to remove redness and prevent tearing. 鈥淭earing is a nightmare for us makeup artists,鈥 he said, adding that eye drops also help hydrate the eyes, keeping them bright and refreshed.
When the model came on stage, she already had basic base makeup and lashes applied, allowing him to focus on the artistry and refinement of his techniques. He started with the eyes, applying a thin line of kohl along the lash line before gently smudging it for a natural, diffused finish.
鈥淏lend, blend 鈥 it鈥檚 your best friend,鈥 he reminded the audience, emphasizing that perfect blending can transform any look. He also applies very little product on the brush to achieve a smooth, even blend.
He started with the eyes, applying a thin line of kohl along the lash line before gently smudging it for a natural, diffused finish. (Supplied)
As a professional tip for fellow makeup artists, he revealed that he uses a puff under his fingers while working on the eyes to avoid disturbing the base.
Fattouh said that there is no fixed order between doing eyes or skin first. It depends on the look and mood he is going for.
When it comes to brow gel, he advised applying brow mascara quickly to avoid a white cast, regardless of the product or formula. He also warned against placing concealer too close to the lash line, because it can make the eyes appear smaller.
During the masterclass, Fattouh teased the launch of a new foundation early next year and a nano brush mascara designed for precise definition. (Supplied)
On contouring, his trick is to brush over the entire nose, then highlight only the bridge 鈥 a simple method he recommends if you find nose contouring tricky or hard to perfect.
During the masterclass, Fattouh teased the launch of a new foundation early next year and a nano brush mascara designed for precise definition.
He concluded by unveiling his latest innovation 鈥 a 鈥渟ee-through鈥 highlighter with almost no pigment, designed, he said, to give the skin a natural, long-lasting glass-like glow.
Debut Mideast architecture awards celebrate cultural innovation and sustainability, says jury chair
Shortlist reflects 鈥榬enaissance,鈥 Kerem Cengiz tells Arab News
2 Saudi projects shortlisted for awards taking place on Nov. 5
Updated 29 October 2025
Shyama Krishna Kumar
DUBAI: The inaugural Middle East鈥檚 Most Transformative New Buildings Awards by the Royal Institute of British Architects aims to highlight the region鈥檚 emerging architectural landscape, and showcase a blend of cultural sensitivity and innovative design principles.
This is according to jury chair Kerem Cengiz, who recently spoke to Arab News about the nuanced judging process that celebrates projects demonstrating exceptional contextual understanding and sustainable approaches.
鈥淭he key was not just evaluating buildings, but understanding how they speak to their environment,鈥 said Cengiz.
The jury examined submissions across diverse categories, ranging from small boutique projects to large urban interventions, representing the region鈥檚 dynamic architectural ecosystem.
鈥淭he shortlist is a powerful reflection of a region in architectural renaissance, where cultural identity is alive, evolving and deeply embedded in contemporary form,鈥 he said.
Among the 15 shortlisted projects, for the awards to be announced on Nov. 5, are two from 黑料社区: King Salman Park in Riyadh, and the nearby Wadi Safar Experience Center.
King Salman Park is a sweeping regeneration of the city鈥檚 former airport site by Gerber Architekten, Buro Happold and Setec. The ambitious project is transforming a relic of the aviation era into a vast urban oasis, providing residents and visitors with a network of gardens.
The Wadi Safar Experience Center is a gateway to the wider Wadi Safar development and draws on the vernacular Najdi style. Created by Dar Al-Omran 鈥 Rasem Badran, the center features inward-facing courtyards and earth-berm landscaping that create a cool, contemplative atmosphere while celebrating the region鈥檚 heritage.
Notably, the judging process emphasized several critical evaluation parameters, including skillful compositional design, exceptional spatial qualities, cultural continuity, environmental sustainability and contextual responsiveness.
Cengiz said he was surprised the jury reached a remarkable consensus, indicating a shared vision for architectural excellence in the Middle East.
鈥淭he submissions demonstrated a significant shift from mimicking global design trends to establishing unique regional architectural identities,鈥 he added.
For emerging architects in the region, Cengiz offered advice: 鈥淒on't be shy to submit your work. Create designs that respect your environment, heritage, and contemporary design approaches.鈥
鈥淏e mindful of contemporary design approaches, but also be mindful of the fact that you are in a place where what you design speaks of the environment that we live in, in the whole and in the heritage and culture.
鈥淎nd not to be either overawed by that, or, you know, playing too much to that, but being encompassed in what you do, in the architecture that you generate.鈥
DUBAI: Lebanese fashion designer Georges Hobeika is celebrating 30 years since launching his namesake brand.
The couturier and his son, Jad Hobeika, the brand鈥檚 creative director, have been taking to Instagram to reflect on their three-decade fashion journey.
To mark the occasion, the house released a short documentary on YouTube, in which Jad opens up about working alongside his father and continuing the brand鈥檚 legacy.
鈥淲orking with Georges, there鈥檚 definitely, you know, he created fashion like no one else in the Middle East,鈥 Jad said in the video shared on Instagram. 鈥淗e is someone who is so professional at what he does. He is so strict. He is a perfectionist, in a way or another.
鈥淚鈥檓 not. I鈥檓 a messy person. I like to try. I like to make things that don鈥檛 make sense or like to create something that doesn't really fit within the norm of what you normally do. This is not the real conversation here. The real conversation is keeping up the beauty of everything that was done before and making it better and better and upgrading it every year and every season,鈥 Jad added.
The brand also posted a carousel of runway images showing its evolution over the years.
Founded in Beirut in 1995, Maison Georges Hobeika is one of Lebanon鈥檚 established fashion houses and is a regular participant in the Paris Haute Couture calendar.
The brand is known for its couture and ready-to-wear collections featuring detailed craftsmanship and refined designs.
Over the years, Hobeika鈥檚 creations have been worn by international celebrities including Jennifer Lopez, Beyonce, Taylor Swift, Kendall Jenner and Emma Stone at major red-carpet events such as the Oscars, Grammys and Cannes Film Festival.
Just this week, US tennis star Serena Williams shared a series of images on Instagram wearing a strapless burgundy gown from the brand, adorned with intricate beadwork and floral embellishments. The dress featured a fitted silhouette with delicate sheer detailing.
The designer also made headlines this month during the El Gouna Film Festival in Egypt, where several regional stars, including veteran actress Yousra and Hagar El-Sarrag, were spotted wearing his creations.