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DUBAI: In the world’s most dynamic kitchens — from Paris to Riyadh — Chef Raffy Beylerian has spent more than 13 years refining a culinary philosophy that transcends borders, and he’s now brought that philosophy to Riyadh as head chef of Attaché, a new dining destination in the heart of the Diplomatic Quarter. 

A graduate of the prestigious École de Cuisine Alain Ducasse in Paris, Beylerian honed his craft in legendary establishments including the three-Michelin-starred Plaza Athénée and La Bastide Saint-Antoine in Grasse. 

His journey has taken him across continents, shaping a cuisine that blends classical French precision with the vibrant flavors of the Middle East, Africa, and beyond. Whether designing intricate tasting menus or leading high-end kitchen brigades, Beylerian’s approach is rooted in seasonality, sustainability, and an unwavering respect for ingredients. 

And his latest stop hasn’t disappointed him. “What surprised me was the level all the restaurants were at here,” he tells Arab News. “I wasn’t expecting this when I first moved here, but once I started going around while doing my market research, I realized �������� was a good place for food.” 

When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made? 

When I couldn’t get something right, I’d get frustrated and demotivated. So you’d get demotivated when you didn’t get something right and then the head chef would tell you off and it doesn’t go well. But with time you realize that, well, you’re cooking every day, and every service is like a blank sheet — basically a fresh start — and, as chefs, we’re only as good as the last dish we put out. 

What’s your top tip for amateur chefs? 

Whatever you’re cooking, just get good produce. It’s really as simple as that. If the produce is good, whatever you’re gonna do at home, whether it’s something simple or something sophisticated, 50 percent of the work is already done. 

What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish and why? 

I would say salt, because salt is the major magnifier and it enhances everything. Apart from that, it would be something acidic, like lemon or lime. 

When you go out to eat, do you critique the food at all?  

It depends on the restaurant. If I’m going to somewhere that has a big reputation and we’re going there for the sake of trying it out — market research, like I said — then yes, I do end up critiquing it. But most of the time, on casual nights out or lunches and stuff, then no, I just try to enjoy it. 

What’s the most common issue you find in other restaurants?  

The seasoning. 

What’s your favorite cuisine or dish to eat? 

Mediterranean food or something close to my background and palate profile. 

What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home? 

Well, eggs are always in my fridge. They’re the easiest thing to do. And when they’re done right, they’re really unbeatable. 

What customer request most annoys you? 

When the guests try to change a dish completely. Because, honestly, we put a lot of work and effort in with the team to develop a dish, so for someone to come and just want to change it or flip it all over is a bit difficult for us. 

As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian, or are you more laid back? 

It’s a bit of both, so not really disciplinarian or laid back. The kitchens I was working in before were very disciplined — we were always shouting, throwing pots and pans and screaming and all that. So, I put it on myself not to be like that. But being completely laid back just doesn’t work in a kitchen. So it’s a bit of both. 

Chef Raffy’s mushroom garden recipe 

For the mushroom purée 

INGREDIENTS: 

100g porcini mushroom; 100g shitake mushroom; 60g salted butter; 2g thyme; 2g sage; 450ml mushroom stock; 50g crème fraiche; 1g black pepper; 3g Maldon salt 

INSTRUCTIONS:  

Chop all the mushrooms into equal parts. 

In a large saute pan add the chopped mushrooms into the foaming butter with the thyme and sage and sautee until soft. 

Add a ladle of mushroom stock and reduce. 

Finish with the crème fraiche and reduce again. 

Transfer to a blender and mix until smooth. 

For the pickled shimenji mushrooms 

INGREDIENTS: 

20g white shimenji mushroom; 100ml rice vinegar; 20g white sugar; 3g whole white pepper 

INSTRUCTIONS: 

In a casserole add the rice vinegar, sugar and white pepper and bring to a boil. 

Clean the shimenji mushroom and poach in the pickling juice for about 3 mins. 

Transfer to a container for later use. 

FINISHING: 

In a deep plate, place the mushroom puree at the base. 

Top with the fried shitake mushrooms and carpaccio (raw, thinly sliced) of white button mushroom. 

Finish with the pickled shimenji, sage oil and dust the dry thyme powder on the white button mushroom. 

DUBAI: From Queensland to Abu Dhabi, Chef Jack Jarrott’s culinary path has been defined by fire, flavor and an unrelenting drive to master his craft.  

He began his journey in London in 2016, training at Westminster Kingsway College before joining the kitchens of Gaucho and Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants, where he earned early recognition, including a Rosette Star.  

In Dubai, he worked alongside Fernando Trocca to launch Sucre, an open-fire dining concept that earned a place in the Michelin Guide, and later joined The Guild under Master Chef Paul Gajewski. There, he played a key role in the restaurant’s launch, contributing to accolades from Michelin, Condé Nast Traveler and Gault & Millau. 

Now based in the UAE capital, Jarrott leads Sand & Koal at Mandarin Oriental, Emirates Palace Abu Dhabi, where the menu reflects his background in open-fire cooking and his focus on seasonal produce. 

When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?  

One of the biggest challenges early on was mastering seasoning, I was always either underseasoning or overseasoning dishes. Balancing flavors on a larger scale was something that took time and experience. It’s one thing to cook for one or two people, where seasoning adjustments are immediate and intuitive. But cooking for 10, 20 or even 100 guests requires a deeper understanding of ingredient ratios, palate balance and consistency. Learning how much is “enough” when scaling up a recipe was a crucial turning point. 

What’s your top tip for amateur chefs? 

Move with intention. Try to work faster than you’re comfortable with. Do not rush, but sharpen your focus. It’s a bit like driving. When you pick up speed, you become more alert and responsive. Mastering multitasking is essential in the kitchen. Prep while something simmers, clean as you go, stay ahead of your own mess. Also, don’t be afraid of making mistakes; the best way to learn is by doing. Over time, speed, precision and instinct will naturally come together. 

What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish? 

It’s not one single ingredient, but a combination of things: salt, fat, acid and heat. These four elements are the pillars of great cooking. Salt enhances and amplifies flavors, fat provides richness and mouthfeel, acid brings brightness and balance, and heat (from spice or temperature) adds depth and character. If a dish tastes flat or unexciting, it’s usually missing one of these four elements. Learning how to balance them will completely transform your cooking. 

When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?  

Absolutely! And not just what’s on the plate; I evaluate the entire experience from the first impression when making a booking to how I feel the moment I walk in. Every detail counts —cleanliness, the confidence and knowledge of the service staff, the pacing of the meal, and of course, the flavor and integrity of the food. All of it matters.  

What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants?  

A disconnect between the concept and the execution — when a restaurant lacks cohesion in its food, service, and atmosphere. 

What’s your favorite cuisine to eat? 

I’m drawn to Asian cuisine, especially Indian food. There’s something deeply soulful and storied about it. I often think of the traditional thali, where every component has a reason to exist — sweet, sour, bitter, crunchy, cooling, warming — all on one plate. Growing up, I’d watch my neighbor prepare thali with such reverence, and I began to understand that food can be a story. Every dish, every condiment, every spice has heritage and meaning. 

What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home? 

Scrambled eggs — six to eight of them — served with half an avocado, some good-quality tuna on toast and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. It’s quick, high in protein, and nourishing without feeling heavy. I usually pair it with sweet coffee and milk. It’s simple and comforting — a grounding ritual I turn to when I want to eat well without overthinking. 

What customer request most annoys you? 

When guests order something completely off-menu it can feel a little dismissive of the thought and intention behind what we’ve created. That said, the guest experience is my top priority, so I always aim to accommodate within reason. I prefer not to say no. I try to find a way to meet the request without compromising the integrity of the kitchen or the dish. 

What’s your favorite dish to cook?  

A steak. There’s something primal and grounding about it. From cleaning and preparing the meat, to seasoning it just right, building the fire, and identifying the perfect heat zone. It’s a process that connects you back to the roots of cooking. It’s not about complexity; it’s about presence. It reminds me why I fell in love with cooking in the first place. 

What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?  

Boiled potatoes for chips — the classic way. It sounds simple, but the technique is delicate. You need just the right amount of salt in the water, maintain the perfect simmer, and then remove the potatoes at the exact moment before they overcook. Letting them steam-dry before frying is key, but the margin for error is razor-thin. It’s a lesson in precision and patience. 

As a head chef, what are you like? 

I’ve been told I bring a lot of energy to the kitchen. I’m excitable, passionate and deeply engaged in the craft. I strive to be humble and patient, both with my team and with myself. I maintain professionalism with guests and try to create a fun, inspiring environment for the team. I don’t believe in forcing things. I prefer to move with the flow and stay open to ideas and creativity. If something or someone inspires me, I jump right in. I’m constantly learning, constantly evolving and that’s the beauty of this industry. 

Chef Jack’s squid with caper, garlic and lemon sauce recipe  

(Serves 4) 

Allergens: 

Molluscs 

Dairy 

Sulphites 

Ingredients 

For the squid: 

4 whole squid, cleaned 

Sea salt 

Freshly ground black pepper 

2 tablespoons cooking oil (pomace or canola) 

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 

100g unsalted butter, cubed 

2 tablespoons fresh parsley, finely chopped 

For the caper sauce base: 

12 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 

200g capers (100g chopped, 100g whole) 

50ml caper brine 

100ml caper liquid 

500ml chicken stock (preferably homemade, with a jelly-like consistency) 

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 

Salt to taste 

Method 

Preparing the caper sauce base: 

Heat olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. 

Add sliced garlic and cook gently, stirring frequently, until golden brown. Be careful not to burn. 

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the garlic to a paper towel to drain. 

In the same oil, add the chicken stock and reduce by half until slightly thickened. 

Add chopped and whole capers, caper brine, and caper liquid. Stir to combine. 

Allow the sauce base to cool to room temperature. 

Finalizing the sauce: 

In a separate saucepan, bring the cooled sauce base to a gentle simmer. 

Stir in fresh lemon juice and season lightly with salt. 

Remove from heat and gradually whisk in cubed butter until smooth and creamy. 

Taste and adjust seasoning with more lemon juice or salt if needed. 

Stir in freshly chopped parsley. Keep warm. 

Grilling the squid: 

Preheat a grill pan or heavy skillet over high heat. 

Pat the cleaned squid dry with a paper towel. Season generously with sea salt. 

Drizzle with cooking oil, ensuring even coverage. 

Carefully place the squid on the hot pan. It should sizzle immediately. 

Grill for 1-2 minutes per side until golden brown. Avoid overcooking. 

Once cooked, remove the squid and let it rest for a minute. 

Season with freshly ground black pepper and a touch more salt. 

Plating: 

Arrange the grilled squid neatly on a serving plate. 

Spoon the warm caper sauce over the squid. 

Sprinkle with additional chopped parsley for freshness. 

Serve immediately. 

Cooking tips: 

Ensure your grill or pan is extremely hot for the perfect sear on the squid. 

Avoid overcooking the squid, as it can become tough and rubbery. 

The sauce must be kept warm but not too hot to maintain a smooth, creamy texture.