DUBAI: At The Rustic Bakery in Riyadh, the scent of freshly baked sourdough greets every visitor. But for its executive chef, Francesco Luigi Carusi, it’s another aroma that lingers deepest in his memory.
“The smell of trippa in my grandma’s kitchen. For the non-Italians: trippa is cow’s stomach lining, slow-cooked with tomato sauce, carrots, and celery. Sounds scary, but trust me, it was always a celebration dish in my family,” he tells Arab News. “Every Sunday lunch we had it, all of us around the table. That smell is basically the smell of my childhood.”
That early connection to food was the seed of a journey that would eventually see him work in more than 50 venues worldwide, and earn recognition in the Gambero Rosso Guide and a UNESCO endorsement for sourdough bread.
The Rustic Bakery in Riyadh. (Supplied)
But Carusi reveals his path wasn’t always destined for the kitchen. “It just sort of happened. My original plan was to become a lawyer. But after school, I used to help my father in our family bakery in Tuscany, and slowly, I fell in love with the craft,” he says. “So let’s just say law’s loss was baking’s gain.”
The Rustic Bakery, he says, takes “a slow-food approach, where ingredients are always the star.”
“It’s built on a simple idea: from the people, for the people,” Carusi says. “The purpose is to let the raw material shine. Everything we do is long- and cold-fermented, sourdough-based, and as authentic as possible.”
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
Following recipes instead of creating them. Especially in baking, people tend to just Google recipes, but it rarely works. Flour in Tuscany is not the same as flour in Riyadh, and every ingredient behaves differently. Recipes are guidelines, not the law.
The Rustic Bakery in Riyadh. (Supplied)
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Success isn’t about the recipe, it’s about technique. Learn the moveset. Gentle hands, the right folds, the right touch. YouTube is full of great videos to train your moves. Once you get the feel, you’re unstoppable.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Sourdough powder. Sprinkle it into anything and it gives flavor, depth, and a natural prebiotic boost. It’s like fairy dust for food.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
I try to be kind. I know what it means to run a business in F&B, and I know the pain of standing behind the counter. Be kind to restaurant people — they’re killing themselves to make you happy.
What’s the most common issue you find in restaurants?
Neglect of carbs. Bread, pizza, focaccia… if you don’t have the expertise, outsource from a good artisan. Don’t just throw bread on the table for decoration, it deserves respect.
What’s your favorite cuisine to eat?
I’m a simple guy. Give me a clean, rare steak or a plate of pasta al pomodoro, and I’m happy. Basically, I like food that’s honest — not drowned in spices, creams, or heavy sauces.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home (say, 20 minutes)?
Caesar salad or chicken soup. Told you, I’m a simple guy.
What customer behavior most annoys you?
Honestly, nothing. Everyone’s different, and I try to fulfill every request. But if I had to pick one thing, I’d say when people try to “customize” authentic products. Just trust the bakery, we’ve got your back.
What’s your favorite dish to cook and why?
Tiramisu. It’s simple, quick, and magical when you use high-quality ingredients. It’s the kind of guilty pleasure you can keep forgiving yourself for.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
With effort and control, nothing’s impossible. But if I had to pick one: panettone. It’s a beast, it reacts to humidity, temperature, even mood swings. But soon, it’ll be on our menu.
What are you like as a leader? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback?
I grew up with the Montessori method: no shouting, no punishing. You won’t find me yelling like a madman. Bread rises better in a calm kitchen.
Chef Francesco’s savory pan brioche
Chef Francesco’s savory pan brioche. (Supplied)
Ingredients (Dough)
Wheat flour (13% protein): 1 kg
Fresh whole milk: 0.5 L
Water: 0.3 L
Sourdough starter (100% hydration, active): 160 g
Eggs: 50 g
Butter: 100g
Parmigiano Reggiano (grated): 40g
Extra-Virgin Olive oil: 20g
Sugar: 80g
Salt: 20g
Procedure – Sourdough Version (preferred)
Mixing: In the mixer bowl, add fresh milk and dissolve the sugar. Add flour, grated Parmigiano, and sourdough starter. Mix until a rough dough forms. Gradually incorporate the eggs one by one. Add butter in small pieces, followed by olive oil. Finally, add salt and continue mixing until the dough is smooth, elastic, and extensible. Keep dough temperature under 26–27°C to protect gluten development.
Bulk Fermentation: Cover the dough and leave to ferment for 3–4 hours at 26°C, with one fold halfway through.
Pre-shaping & Proofing: Divide the dough into 125 g pieces, shape into smooth balls, and place 6 balls per mold (22x12x10cm). Proof at 26°C, covered, until the dough reaches about 1 cm below the mold edge. With sourdough, this may take 6–8 hours, depending on starter activity.
Baking: Preheat oven to 180°C with minimal ventilation. Bake 10 minutes at 180°C, then lower to 170°C and continue for 40–45 minutes. Internal temperature should reach 92–94°C.
Alternative with Fresh Yeast
Replace sourdough with 30g fresh yeast or 15gr dry yeast.
Reduce fermentation times: Bulk proof: 45–60 minutes at 26°C. Final proof: 2–3 hours at 26°C, or until 1 cm from mold edge.
Baking procedure remains the same.
