DUBAI: By the time Vladimir Chistyakov stepped into a professional kitchen for the first time at age 30, he was told it was already too late.
“A lot of people said: ‘If you want to be a chef, you should’ve started 10 years ago,’” Chistyakov tells Arab News. Happily, he didn’t listen to them.
Now 40, the Serbian is the brand chef for Dubai-based Metafoodies, a group that includes ALBA Street (Asian street food), ALBA (upscale pan-Asian), Himitsu (a speakeasy bar) and Bisou (Mediterranean fusion).
ALBA Street. (Supplied)
Before entering the culinary world, Chistyakov explored careers in journalism, marketing and even mobile repair. But it was not until he enrolled in a short culinary course that everything changed. “Our chef showed us how to make a really nice chicken stock,” he says. “In that moment, I knew this was my future.”
He continues: “Don’t listen to people who say you’re too late. If you love it, do it. Every day. And one day, it could change your life.”
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
It was difficult to make something simple. I was trying to impress, you know? Too many textures, a lot of sauce, a ton of ingredients... But now I understand what simplicity is.
Alba, sashimi. (Supplied)
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Cooking is like a form of meditation. Don’t stress. It won’t be perfect, and that’s OK. They key is to enjoy the process and do your best. It’s an art. It’s about emotion. It’s a way to disconnect from the world. It doesn’t matter if you are cooking at home or in a professional kitchen, you have to enjoy the process and immerse yourself in it.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Oils. They are the cheat code for almost all food. But, also, don’t forget about love. If you’re not cooking it with love and with respect for your people or yourself, it will not taste nice. There’s a lot of different hacks for food, but oils and love are the main ones.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
I try to never think about it, but it’s a professional habit. I’m not a harsh critic, but I hate when everything in the place is made without soul, you know? Like, when you feel there is no life to anything. That’s really terrible. The food can taste really good, but if it is made without life, you feel it.
Alba, Wagyu tataki with yuzu kosho ponzu. (Supplied)
What’s the most-common issue that you find in other restaurants?
The most important thing: service. The people on the floor are the first to welcome you. Ninety-nine percent of your happiness at a restaurant is not about the food, it’s about service.
What’s your favorite cuisine to eat?
I love Italian food. It’s really simple. But it’s difficult to find a good Italian place. There are a lot of different really expensive places (in the UAE), but a restaurant like one you would find in Rome and Milan, where you can eat for 10 Euros and, like, the portion of pasta is good, is almost impossible to find here.
I also like Japanese food. I am from Siberia — part of Asia. We have a culture code from the Asian countries. We eat a lot of raw fish, but it’s not sea fish, it’s river fish.
Alba, Salmon avo handroll. (Supplied)
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
I like pasta with parmigiano or tomatoes. Or, if it’s a really lazy day, noodles or dumplings. If you come to our home, you’ll find boxes of instant noodles in the kitchen — a lot of different types.
What’s your favorite dish to cook ?
When I have time, I like to make something from my childhood. I really love Laghman — it’s like ramen, from the family of this same soup, but from Uzbekistan. It’s amazing. I love it. It’s difficult to make. You need a lot of time, but really nice. I also like braised potatoes with meat. That reminds me of my childhood and my family in Russia.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
An omelet. It’s difficult to make it light and fluffy without overcooking it. It’s an art, and it depends on your mood and your emotions. Early in my career, I went on vacation to France and found a great place for an internship. When I arrived, the head chef, a really old, funny guy, looked at me and said, “Make me an omelet.” So I did. And for me, that moment was really meaningful — like a test of who I was as a chef. But the thing is, sometimes your emotions affect your cooking. If you’re not in the right state of mind, it shows in the food. You might still make a decent omelet, but it won’t be the same. You have to control everything: the temperature of the pan, the heat of the butter, the timing. You have to feel it all.
As a head chef, what are you like?
Five years ago, I was like a devil in the kitchen, but I’ve changed a lot since then. It’s hard to be honest all the time, to really lead with intention and stay in control. I don’t yell at everyone like I used to. I really make an effort. Of course, there are moments, if something goes wrong during a really important service, that I might lose my temper. But it’s rare — maybe once a year. I like when the kitchen runs like an orchestra. Everyone knows their role, the rhythm is right, and the energy flows between the team, not just with the guests, but with the kitchen staff. I want the team to feel the emotion of the moment, to feel the pace, but without stress. You can’t cook good food when you’re stressed. If someone’s out of sync, you can sense it immediately. That’s why I always come back to one thing: balance. I try to stay balanced in everything.
Chef Vladimir’s stir fried spicy noodles
Vladimir’s stir fried spicy noodles. (Supplied)
Ingredients:
White onion 30 g
Mixed mushrooms (shiitake, enoki, champignons, etc.) 30 g
Bell pepper 65 g
Wagyu beef 80 g
Ramen noodles 150 g
Sunflower oil 10 g
Spring onion 10 g
Chives 10 g
Red chili (long) 1 g
Ramen sauce 50 g
Preparation:
Slice the white onion into half rings, mushrooms into thin slices, and bell pepper into strips. Cut the beef into thin strips. Boil the ramen noodles until al dente, according to package instructions.
Stir-fry:
Heat sunflower oil in a wok or deep skillet over high heat.
Add the onion and sauté until translucent.
Add mushrooms and bell pepper, stir-fry for 1–2 minutes.
Add the beef and stir-fry until nicely seared.
Combine:
Add the ramen noodles and mix with the other ingredients.
Pour in the ramen sauce and stir-fry for another 1–2 minutes.
Finish with chives, spring onion, and finely sliced red chili.
Serve:
Plate the noodles and garnish with herbs or sesame seeds, if desired.
Sauce:
Dark soy sauce 10 g
Soy sauce 10g
Oyster sauce 20 g
Olive oil 20 g
Sesame oil 10 g
Sweet Chilli 10 g
Sugar 5 g