Moroccan women embroider ‘art with purpose’

Moroccan women embroider ‘art with purpose’
1 / 2
A woman participates in an embroidery workshop in Sidi Rbat, some 70 kilometers (45 miles) south of Agadir, on May 14, 2025. (AFP)
Moroccan women embroider ‘art with purpose’
2 / 2
Women attend an embroidery workshop in Sidi Rbat, some 70 kilometres (45 miles) south of Agadir, on May 14, 2025. (AFP)
Short Url
Updated 01 June 2025

Moroccan women embroider ‘art with purpose’

Moroccan women embroider ‘art with purpose’
  • Several hunch over large canvasses, embroidering their latest piece at the women-only workshop, in the village of 400 people
  • Some of their works have been shown internationally

SIDI RBAT, Morocco: In a small village on the coast of southern Morocco, women gather in a house to create collaborative works of textile art, and also earn a living.

Several hunch over large canvasses, embroidering their latest piece at the women-only workshop, in the village of 400 people. Some of their works have been shown internationally.

“This project has changed my life,” said Hanane Ichbikili, a 28-year-old former nursing student turned project creative director.

“And yet I had never held an embroidery needle before,” she told AFP.

Just 19 percent of Moroccan women hold steady jobs, according to official figures, and in rural areas they are particularly affected by poverty, unpaid labor and a lack of opportunity.

An artist with roots in both Morocco and France has tried to make a difference.

Margaux Derhy founded the workshop in 2022 in her father’s native village of Sidi R’bat, around 70 kilometers (45 miles) south of Agadir, to fulfil her “dream to make art with purpose.”

The project uses textiles and old photographs to explore her family heritage before they left the country in the 1960s, turning sepia-toned portraits and scenes into large silk-and-linen canvases.

The North African country was a protectorate of France before gaining its independence in 1956.

The project is more than just personal for Derhy — it also provides local women in the small fishing village employment.

“I wanted to be engaged on the ground,” said Derhy, adding that she hired 10 local women to work full-time for a monthly salary exceeding Morocco’s private-sector minimum wage of 3,045 dirhams ($330).

The women’s hands glide over frames that were once used by Paris’s prestigious Maison Lesage, the world-famous embroidery house that has worked with some of the greatest names in fashion.

The creative process is collaborative, with Derhy drawing an outline and the team then gathering to choose the threads and color palette for each section.

A canvas can take up to five months to complete.

The finished works, priced at up to $5,620, have been shown in exhibitions in Marrakech, Paris and Brussels. Future exhibits are planned for Casablanca’s L’Atelier 21 and Tabari Artspace Gallery in Dubai.

The workshop has also helped to challenge perceived ideas about women in the village.

“At first, some of the women had to hide to come because it was frowned upon,” said Khadija Ahuilat, 26, who oversees operations.

She said some people thought the project “was nonsense, and a woman should stay at home.”

“But we managed to change that. I’m very proud to have contributed to this change, even if on a small scale.”

Her mother, Aicha Jout, 50, a widow who once gathered mussels and raised livestock to support her family, is now one of the embroiderers.

“It changes a lot for me to be here,” she said.

“I love the idea of embroidering on pictures, but also of passing on the craft to other women.”

Jout learned to embroider at the age of 12, and has trained the rest of her mostly single or widowed colleagues.

“There aren’t really a lot of job opportunities here, so when the chance came I didn’t hesitate for a second,” said Haddia Nachit, 59, one of the workshop’s most efficient embroiders.

Her nickname among the women is “TGV” — after France’s high-speed train.

Seated next to Nachit, Fadma Lachgar, also 59, said the work allowed her to help her family.

“Resuming embroidery at my age, after 20 years of stopping, is a blessing,” she said.


’No one could stop it’: Sudanese describe mass rapes while fleeing El-Fasher

Updated 3 sec ago

’No one could stop it’: Sudanese describe mass rapes while fleeing El-Fasher

’No one could stop it’: Sudanese describe mass rapes while fleeing El-Fasher
TAWILA: Sudanese mother Amira wakes up every day trembling, haunted by scenes of mass rapes she saw while fleeing the western city of El-Fasher after it was overrun by paramilitaries.
Following an 18-month siege marked by starvation and bombardment, El-Fasher — the last army stronghold in the western Darfur region — fell on October 26 to the paramilitary Rapid Support Forces (RSF), which have been at war with the military since April 2023.
Reports have since emerged of mass killings, sexual violence, attacks on aid workers, looting and abductions in a city where communications have largely been cut off.
“The rapes were gang rapes. Mass rape in public, rape in front of everyone and no one could stop it,” Amira said from a makeshift shelter in Tawila, some 70 kilometers (43 miles) west of El-Fasher.
The mother of four spoke during a webinar organized by campaign group Avaaz with several survivors of the recent violence.
Avaaz gave the survivors who participated in the webinar pseudonyms for their safety.
Doctors Without Borders (MSF) said more than 300 survivors of sexual violence had sought care from its teams in Tawila after a previous RSF assault on the nearby Zamzam camp, which displaced more than 380,000 people last spring.
“The RSF have carried out widespread sexual violence across towns and villages in Sudan to humiliate, assert control and to forcefully displace families and communities from their homes,” Amnesty International warned in April.
The rights group has documented conflict-related sexual violence by both the army and RSF — particularly in the capital Khartoum and Darfur — and denounced “over two decades of impunity for such crimes, particularly by the RSF.”

- Nighttime assaults -

In Korma, a village about 40 kilometers northwest of El-Fasher, Amira said she was detained for two days because she could not pay RSF fighters for safe passage.
Those unable to pay, she said, were denied food, water and the ability to leave, and mass assaults took place at night.
“You’d be asleep and they’d come and rape you,” she said.
“I saw with my own eyes people who couldn’t afford to pay and the fighters took their daughters instead.
“They said, ‘Since you can’t pay, we’ll take the girls.’ If you had daughters of a young age, they would take them immediately.”
Sudan’s state minister for social welfare, Sulimah Ishaq, told AFP that 300 women were killed on the day El-Fasher fell, “some after being sexually assaulted.”
The General Coordination for Displaced People and Refugees in Darfur, an independent humanitarian group, had documented 150 cases of sexual violence since the fall of El-Fasher until November 1.
“Some incidents occurred in El-Fasher and others during the journey to Tawila,” Adam Rojal, the organization’s spokesman, told AFP.

- Raped at gunpoint -

Last week, the UN confirmed alarming reports that at least 25 women were gang-raped when RSF forces entered a shelter for displaced people near El-Fasher University in the city’s west.
“Witnesses confirmed that RSF personnel selected women and girls and raped them at gunpoint,” Seif Magango, spokesperson for the UN human rights office, said in Geneva.
Mohamed, another survivor who joined the Avaaz webinar from Tawila, described how women and girls of all ages were searched and humiliated in Garni, a town between El-Fasher and Tawila.
“If they found nothing on you, they beat you. They searched the girls, even tearing apart their (sanitary) pads,” he said.
In Garni, before reaching Korma, Amira said that RSF leaders would “greet people,” but as soon as they left, the fighters who stayed behind began torturing them.
“They start categorising you: ‘You were married to a soldier.’ ‘You were affiliated with the army,’” she said.
She also described seeing men slaughtered with knives by RSF fighters. “My 12-year-old son saw it himself, and he is now in a bad psychological state,” she said.
“We wake up shivering from fear, images of slaughter haunt us.”
More than 65,000 people have fled El-Fasher since its fall, including more than 5,000 who are now sheltering in Tawila, which was already hosting more than 650,000 displaced people, according to the UN.
In Tawila, hundreds of people have huddled together in makeshift tents in a vast desert expanse, scrounging together what they can to prepare food for their families, AFP video shows.
Rojal of the General Coordination for Displaced People and Refugees in Darfur warned that the situation “needs immediate intervention.”
“People need food, water, medicine, shelter and psychological support,” he said.