DHAKA: The streets of Old Dhaka stay alive all night during Ramadan, with grocery shops, tailor stalls, hair salons, and eateries keeping their doors open as people from across the Bangladeshi capital flock to the neighborhood for its local delicacies that cannot be found anywhere else.
Old Dhaka is the historic core and original settlement of the city of Dhaka.
Vibrant and densely populated, it is known for its rich cultural heritage and traditional architecture. It is the heart of the Bangladeshi capital’s old markets and residential buildings, many of which date back to the 17th century, when Dhaka was an important part of the Mughal Empire.
Forgotten throughout the year by the rest of the city, where life revolves around modern settlements and business districts, residents of Old Dhaka are reminded of their significance during the fasting month, when their neighborhood becomes a main attraction.
“Only in the month of Ramadan we work at full capacity. Every day, we receive new orders, and sometimes, we even have to refuse them,” said Mohammed Nasir Uddin Sagar Khan,
a tailor shop owner in Old Dhaka’s Nazirabazar.
“We earn much more during Ramadan. The money I earn is quite good.”
His shop remains open throughout the night until a bit after sahoor, or around daybreak, after which it closes for a few hours of rest.
“It feels good working during those nights as the area remains crowded, with people coming from different places,” Khan said. “Media and TV channels of Dhaka come here during night to have biryani, ice cream, and chit-chat. We enjoy this ambiance very much.”
At a nearby salon in Agasadek lane, Somrat Hossain Sumon is dealing with a line of queuing customers.
“We experience a surge in clients,” he said. “During Ramadan, our customers start coming immediately after iftar … Usually, we continue till sahoor hours or as long as our customers need our services.”
While some people come to Old Dhaka for festive clothes and some for haircuts, what draws most is the neighborhood’s unique food scene.
Nazirabazar is widely considered the food capital of Old Dhaka, and guests not only from other parts of the city but also from areas 50-60km away regularly visit during Ramadan to taste various kinds of biriyani, kebab, and desserts.
“Our restaurants are crowded at all times. For sahoor, people even need to queue to secure a seat,” said Mohammed Abdullah Al Mamun, manager of Mamun Biriyani, one of the famous biryani spots in the neighborhood.
“People mostly come to our restaurant to have our signature dish beef tehari … We are famous for this dish.”
Tehari is a variety of biryani — a rice dish that to many in South Asia is a favorite Ramadan comfort food.
In Nazirabazar, it is the most sought-after item.
“Biryani from this place is famous around the world … Today, I came here particularly for this biryani,” said Shahjalal Scissor, a student who arrived in Old Dhaka from Bashundhora, an upscale area of new Dhaka.
“I came here to feel the heritage, the ambiance of this place, the tradition and nightlife of Old Dhaka. I am here to experience all these things.”
Maruf Ahmed, a businessman from Dhaka’s Uttara area, brought his family along to treat them to something unique for sahoor.
“The flavors I enjoy here are something one doesn’t get anywhere in Uttara,” he said.
“Most of the time, I have kebab from Bismillah Kebab. I think in the marination or spices they use, they have some secret which makes the taste different. Also, they roast the meat over coal, while in most places we’re used to oil-fried kebabs.”
To cap off iftar or sahoor, many opt for the iconic flavored yogurt drinks.
Beauty Lassi, one of the places that serve the drink in Old Dhaka, has been around for over 100 years.
The shop’s recipes have been passed down from its founder to the next generations, and the drinks it offers are nowhere else to be found.
“We have lassi in our locality too, but lassi at Beauty Lassi of Old Dhaka is unmatched. We don’t even compare it,” said Abdur Rahman Shihab, who arrived in Nazirabazar from Shonir Akhra with a group of friends.
They stayed in Old Dhaka for iftar.
“We don’t get this kind of food every day … All these dishes are a testament to heritage, each with its unique signature taste. It’s the specialty of Old Dhaka,” Shihab told Arab News.
“Every food served here has some special taste. That’s why we came here. We visit this place only on special occasions.”
