Traditional manousheh leaves tables in poverty-hit Lebanon

Abu Shadi cuts a freshly baked garnished flatbread for a customer in his bakery in Beirut as Lebanon's worse financial crunch in decades has sent prices soaring as many can no longer afford even this modest pastry. (AFP)
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  • Lebanon's worse financial crunch has sent prices soaring and baker Abu Shadi says many clients of three decades can no longer afford even manousheh
  • Nowadays Abu Shadi turns down the heat in his oven once he has baked enough manaeesh to save on gas

BEIRUT 鈥� Scattering spinach and hot chili onto fluffy flatbread in Lebanon鈥檚 capital, 54-year-old Abu Shadi bemoans better times before the economic crisis when all Lebanese could afford his simple meals.
The veteran baker is famed for his take on Lebanon鈥檚 manousheh, a circle of freshly baked dough sprinkled with anything from thyme to meat, then folded in half and rolled in paper to go.
But Lebanon鈥檚 worse financial crunch in decades has sent prices soaring, and Abu Shadi says many of his customers of three decades can no longer afford even this modest pastry.
鈥淪ince I started working at this oven in 1987, it鈥檚 been nothing but goodness and blessings. But today, all that has gone,鈥� he said.
On the phone, he warmly receives a stream of orders.
He jokes with a customer as he waits for his breakfast, and from inside his shop waves at an acquaintance as they drive by in their car.
Looking up from time to time from the flatbreads he heaps with filling, he greets the old and young as they walk by.
He hums loudly, only pausing to compliment an elderly lady on her blonde hairstyle.
But nowadays, Abu Shadi turns down the heat in his oven once he has baked enough manaeesh (plural form of manousheh) to save on gas.
Long gone are the days when he fired up the oven at 8:00 am, and did not turn it off till 3:00 pm.
鈥淭he manousheh is both a father and mother to the Lebanese people. It鈥檚 food for the rich and the poor,鈥� he said.
鈥淪adly at the moment, the poor can no longer afford to eat it,鈥� he said.
Tens of thousands have lost their jobs or a huge part of their income in the financial crunch, which has caused the Lebanese currency to lose more than 85 percent of its value.
A manousheh 鈥渦sed to cost between 1,000 to 1,500 pounds ($0.66 to $1), but now it鈥檚 5,000.鈥�
The new price is less than $0.50 at the black market rate for a lucky few with access to dollars, but most Lebanese earn wages in the local currency 鈥� and see that as up to five times the normal price.
The baker says that for three decades, customers have streamed in at weekends, ordering up to seven or eight manaeesh to take away for a traditional family breakfast.
But over the past few months, those customers have stopped coming altogether.
鈥淢anaeesh are now only for the well off,鈥� he said.
鈥淲hoever earns 30,000 or 40,000 pounds a day is not going to spend 5,000 on a thyme manousheh. They have other expenses.鈥�
But Abu Shadi has been forced to raise his prices to cover the increasing cost of supplies, from flour and cheese to the paper he wraps the manousheh in.
鈥淲e used to live a cushy life, but people鈥檚 living situations have really slumped,鈥� he said.
鈥淲e鈥檝e never seen anything like it.鈥�
But one customer, Mahmoud, says he will continue to buy the bread he has grown to love, 鈥渨hatever the cost.鈥�
鈥淲hoever is used to Abu Shadi鈥檚 manaeesh cannot replace it,鈥� he said, between bites of one filled with cheese and meat.
Abu Shadi has been helped by the fact that his customers keep coming back.
But he says he has not been forced to close like other small bakers since he does the job on his own.
鈥淎fter all this time and effort, I鈥檓 only still going because I work for myself,鈥� he said.
鈥淭he money others pay to their staff, I keep to live off 鈥� I have nothing but my hands and God.鈥�